A cheese of his own
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By Josh O'Gorman Herald Staff - Published: January 5, 2009
LUDLOW — Leslie Stuart is offering a taste of politics with her cheese and wine.
The owner of Wine & Cheese Depot on Depot Street in Ludlow is one of only a handful of local merchants selling "Barick Obama" cheese.
"When people see it, they start smiling," Stuart said. "Some people buy it because of the name and others buy it because they buy everything she makes."
Stuart was referring to Laini Fondiller, owner and operator of Lazy Lady Farm in the village of Westfield in Newport. Despite the name of her operation, Fondiller is anything but lazy and produces more than 270 pounds of cheese a week.
"I'm a political junkie. I listen to talk radio all day," Fondiller said, and many of her cheese brands reflect her political interest. When Alberto Gonzales resigned as U.S. attorney general in 1997, Fondiller made a cheese called "Gonezales," with the emphasis on "gone." When former U.S. Rep. Tom DeLay, R-Texas, was indicted on charges of conspiracy to violate election laws in 2005, Fondiller responded with "Tomme Delay."
When Fondiller heard Obama announce his candidacy in May 2007, she was inspired to make a cheese in his name.
"I was working with this brick mold, and I'm from Indiana, where we say 'barick' when we mean 'brick,' and that's where the cheese came from," Fondiller said.
The half-pound brick of cheese is made from Jersey milk and cream and has a washed rind.
"It's a heated curd, so it has some elasticity," Fondiller said.
Provisions International, in White River Junction, is the exclusive distributor of Lazy Lady Farm products, including the "Barick Obama" cheese. Fondiller's cheeses are so popular the demand for them frequently exceeds the supply.
"We never have enough of her cheeses to go around," said Nancy Gilman, who handles sales for Provisions International.
In addition to the Wine & Cheese Depot in Ludlow, "Barick Obama" cheese is also available at the Woodstock Farmer's Market, 468 Woodstock Road. The cheese has always been popular there, but since November, demand has increased.
"Since he's been elected, it's been selling even better," said Nicole Bartner, an associate with the Woodstock Farmer's Market. The cheese, which retails for $27.59 a pound, frequently sells out, Bartner said.
"We order as much as we can, but we get what we get," she said.
Fondiller said Obama's upcoming inauguration has also led to an increased demand for the cheese.
"I have shops down in Washington screaming for it, but I can't give up my local customers," Fondiller said. "I'm set in my ways and I don't to gear up to see demand drop off."
Contact Josh O'Gorman at josh.ogorman@rutlandherald.com.
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